Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE
My interest and writing on watches is motivated by two factors - the story or history behind the creation of a watch, and, its intricately designed and complex movement. My fascination with the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE is an amalgamation of both.
Right - Ferdinand Berthoud presented his Marine Watch No. 3 pivoted with a Detent escapement in 1771.
History
Ferdinand Berthoud was a French Master Watchmaker best known for constructing marine chronometers. He was also known for the invention of the gimbal system that enabled a marine clock to maintain its horizontal position at all times. In the year 1770, Ferdinand Berthoud was honoured with the title of 'Clockmaker and Mechanic by appointment to the French King and Navy.' To pay homage to Berthoud and mark the 250th year anniversary of this title, this eponymous French brand recently launched the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.
Movement sketches of the Clock No. 6 seen completed and positioned within a "Gimbal system" in the year 1776.
Design
The design of this timepiece bridges the gap between history and modern day aesthetics and is inspired specifically by Berthoud’s Marine Clock No. 6. The two most prominent similarities are the twin level grand fue enamel dial of the watch and the lateral porthole window on the side of the watch case.
The latter showcases the brilliantly assembled movement in action. Unsurprisingly, both were signature designs from Berthoud.
The grand feu Enamel dial has a two level construction - the inner dial is smaller and slightly recessed and the other, a larger outer dial. Time is displayed via Roman numerals for the hours and Arabic numerals marking the minutes. These markings are also made in enamel. 18 karat gold hands and a centre deadbeat second hand tell the time. Lastly, the curved steel bezel is also inspired by the dome shaped marine clock.
L - Signature dial seen in the Marine Clock No. 6; R- Recreated in the FB 2RE wristwatch
Flip the watch around and you notice the open case that highlights the visually simplified yet over complicated movement. The hidden gear train under a base plate ensures the main elements like the fusée and chain and the Remontoir d’Egalite constant force mechanism remain highlighted.
Movement and How It Works
Through my swimming career, I spent many training sessions focusing on how to swim as efficiently as possible. Adjustments in stroke technique would result in smoother progress through the water. The movement in the FB 2RE is fascinating to me primarily because of the same parallel, where the movement in this watch is designed to assure it ticks on as efficiently as possible.
Most uniquely, it houses not one but two constant force escapement mechanisms, namely the fusée and chain and the Remontoir d'Egalite.
I have written on how a fusée and chain operates in my blog on Romain Gauthier's Logical One.
You will find my notes on the Remontoir d'Egalite in F.P.Journe's Resonance.
To quickly recap how a constant force mechanism works -
In most watches, efficiency of the movement reduces as the power stored in the mainspring depletes. Watches that incorporate a constant force mechanism ensure that their timekeeping and working of the movement remain consistent irrespective of reserve power in the barrel.
Once energy from the mainspring is dissipated evenly by the fusée and chain, it is transmitted through the gear train. However, the meshing teeth of the gears still create some friction. This is where the Remontoir d'Egalite complements the work of the fusée and chain to further iron out power inconsistencies that would otherwise be transmitted to the balance of the watch. The Remontoir is positioned concentrically over the escape wheel and is directly connected to it. The entire assembly is most unique and intricately constructed.
Another stand out feature on the dial side of the watch is the deadbeat central seconds hand which is different from the more traditional sweeping seconds movement of a mechanical watch. It is fabricated from matte finish titanium that only weighs 0.01 grams.
This translates to minimal energy being consumed by the ultra-light dead beat seconds, in the process reducing the load on the working of the Remontoir.
The titanium seconds hand in conjunction with the efficient fusée and chain enable the consistent working of the Remontoir through all fifty hours of its power reserve. This feature is rare in watchmaking as most highly complicated timepieces that house a Remontoir are unable to sustain accuracy beyond a certain point of their stored power reserve. A thoughtfully designed stop balance wheel device can be activated to instantaneously stop the beating heart of the watch to set the time down to the exact second.
Tech Specs
The watch beats at a low frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (vph) which ensures minimal wear on its moving parts enabling longer service intervals. A manual wound movement housing 1,200 parts and 58 jewels in a 44mm case is covered with a domed sapphire crystal. This masterpiece exudes watchmaking brilliance and transcends the highest of high horology standards.
The FB 2RE movement decorated entirely by hand using traditional tools that contribute to the incomparable shine of the timepiece.
Closing Notes
It took Ferdinand Berthoud a total of four years to create this timepiece which included a year and a half spent only on the design and manufacture of the enamel dial.
A high price tag of 210,000 Swiss Francs is justified by the over 250 hours put in, by hand, to finish a hugely complicated in-house movement cradled by exquisitely crafted bridges and pillars to give you a COSC certified chronometer. Available in a limited edition of only twenty pieces, ten come in pink gold and ten in white gold.
Contemporary independent brands constantly work to create a bridge between historical and modern design.
Large movements and calibres that once fit into clocks and big pocket watches are miniaturised and assembled into a watch case.
This for me is most exciting, and I can’t wait to own a timepiece with a fusée and chain actuated movement.
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